Why Gucci's AI Strategy Sparked a High Fashion Debate

The strategic direction of Gucci’s marketing has come under fire just as the brand prepares for a pivotal moment at Milan Fashion Week.

On Friday, the brand's new creative director, Demna Gvasalia, is set to present his debut runway vision. However, the lead-up to the event has been overshadowed by a series of AI-generated promotional images that fans claim lack the "soul" of traditional luxury.

Critics argue that for a house owned by Kering, which prides itself on artisanal heritage, the move into synthetic imagery feels like a cost-cutting measure that contradicts the high prices and craftsmanship expectations of its wealthy global customer base.

Impact on brand value and reputation

The controversy began when realistic-looking images, such as a Milanese sciura in a restaurant, were posted with "Created with AI" labels.

"Bleak days when Gucci can't find a real human Milanese grandmother to wear an outfit from 1976," remarked one social media user. This backlash points to a potential misalignment between corporate efficiency and consumer perception of prestige.

While the brand has experimented with digital art before, including NFT auctions, the use of AI for mainstream runway promotion is a new area of exploration.

This is particularly significant given the co-founder of Vetements and former Balenciaga leader, Demna, is known for provocative, high-stakes creative decisions.

Gucci: a history of luxury

Gucci’s century-long journey began in 1921 when Guccio Gucci opened his first shop in Florence. Following his death in 1953, his sons expanded the brand globally, making the "GG" logo a status symbol in the 1960s.

The 1970s marked the brand’s first foray into clothing, but by the 1980s, the house faced a decline due to family infighting. The 1994 appointment of Tom Ford saved the company from bankruptcy, ushering in a "glamour" era.

In the 2000s, Gucci became part of the Kering group. The 2015 arrival of Alessandro Michele redefined the brand’s aesthetic again, leading up to the current 2026 transition under Demna.

Creative director debut and technological shifts

Demna Gvasalia’s first show for the brand is scheduled for 27 February 2026.

Known mononymously as Demna, the director has a history of navigating controversy, most notably during his time at Balenciaga. His move to integrate AI into the debut's promotion may be a deliberate attempt to challenge the definition of luxury.

Some images are even animated in a style similar to video games, sparking speculation about broader entertainment collaborations.

"I don't feel that this campaign was necessarily made to reflect luxury but create commentary on what luxury actually is," said Tati Bruening, a photographer with 2.4 million followers on TikTok.

Digital assets and the Christie’s auction

The company’s previous forays into the tech space include the commissioning of digital artists for visuals auctioned at Christie’s.

These were often framed as creative exercises rather than replacements for core marketing assets.

However, as generative AI becomes more prevalent, the line between "experimental" and "operational" is blurring. Experts warn that luxury brands must be cautious not to erode their exclusivity.

"I think particularly luxury fashion brands need to pay attention [to whether] the latest technology can create positive image for their brands," said Dr Priscilla Chan, senior lecturer at Manchester Metropolitan University's Fashion Institute.

Priscilla emphasised that negative publicity can spread rapidly in the digital age.

The changing nature of luxury

The use of AI has not been universally condemned; some admire the brand's willingness to subvert expectations.

Tati Bruening acknowledged that while she is "generally not a fan" of AI image generation in fashion, there are "ways to use AI that is non-invasive to the creative ecosystem."

Tati suggested that the current campaign might be a parody intended to provoke a debate about artistry in the age of automation.

Whether this strategy will pay off for Kering and its flagship brand remains to be seen, as the runway show approaches and the fashion world prepares to judge the "real" craftsmanship of Demna's new collection in Milan.